The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has unveiled the official shortlist of timepieces competing in its 25th edition.
What we like to call the ‘Oscars of watchmaking’, the GPHG remains the most influential platform for recognising design, craftsmanship and innovation. At the heart of it all sits the Aiguille d’Or, the most coveted prize in horology.
This year’s nominations come from a record pool of 302 models submitted by 184 brands. Unlike Australia’s media trade press awards, these make awards actually matter.
From that, the Academy of more than 1,000 members selected 90 finalists, including 84 watches and six clocks spread across 15 categories. The winners will be revealed on 13 November in Geneva at the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices, with the ceremony broadcast worldwide.
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The categories reflect the full range of modern watchmaking. The “Ladies” field features Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz, Gérald Genta’s Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal and Piaget’s Sixtie. Tiffany & Co. joins the fray with a high-jewellery Bird on a Rock Legacy Tanzanite, while Kari Voutilainen submits the refined 28CG.
Big OTT complications always play a starring role with IWC’s Eternal Calender taking out the top award last year.
This year, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Selfwinding is nominated alongside Chopard’s colourful Imperiale Four Seasons and Hermès’ poetic Le Temps Suspendu. Jacob & Co. enters the Mystery Tourbillon, a 44mm spectacle of mechanics and theatre.
Among the men’s categories, Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Mark IV stands out with its ultra-thin profile and four-barrel power reserve. Grand Seiko pushes technical boundaries with the Spring Drive U.F.A., while Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Auto Horizon offers timeless restraint.
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Independent English watchmaker Garrick has also made the list with its S3 Deadbeat Seconds, a rare nod for a small-scale atelier.
In Men’s Complication, Audemars Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary with yet another skeletonised Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (yawn), joined by Louis Vuitton’s collaborative LVKV-02 with Kari Voutilainen.
Chopard returns with the L.U.C Lunar One, Parmigiani Fleurier adds the Toric Quantieme Perpetuel, and Urban Jürgensen presents its double-wheel escapement perpetual.
The Tourbillon category may be the fiercest of all. Bulgari enters with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, continuing its reign of ultra-thin records.
Czapek offers the Antarctique Tourbillon Glacier Blue, while Arnold & Son puts forward the Constant Force Tourbillon 11. Even independent newcomer Fam Al Hut makes an impression with the Möbius.
On the sportier side, Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, Grand Seiko’s Tokyo Lion Tentagraph and Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport Chronograph add performance firepower to the mix. H. Moser’s Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph complete a highly competitive line-up.
Ahead of the awards, the nominated watches will travel the world on exhibition. Shanghai will host the opening leg from 29 September to 8 October, followed by Istanbul, Geneva and finally Dubai, where the winners will be celebrated during Dubai Watch Week.
After 25 years, the GPHG remains the ultimate barometer of watchmaking prestige.
