Panerai Announces Historic First To Its Most Iconic Collection

Panerai brings bronze to the Luminor Marina for the first time. A proper tool watch built for the sea, powered by a new movement and decades of heritage.

Image: Panerai

  • Exclusive look at Panerai’s first ever Luminor Marina crafted in bronze, with a patina that evolves uniquely over time.
  • New P.980 in-house movement with 3-day power reserve and improved shock resistance.
  • 500 metre water resistance with slimmer case for better daily wearability.

Few brands can lay claim to such a singular identity as Panerai. Of course, in today’s horological space, swing a large net and you’d catch any number of brands that fall into the “Jack of All Trades; Master of None” category. But not Panerai.

Blue gradient sandwich dial with luminous numerals
Panerai’s most famous silhouette, now forged in bronze for the very first time in the Luminor Marina line. Image: DMARGE

Founded in Florence by Giovanni Panerai, the luxury Maison began as a workshop and watch shop over 160 years ago in 1860. Over time, it became a trusted partner of the Italian Navy, supplying precision instruments and technical solutions designed to withstand the extreme conditions of underwater operations.

Those early dive watches were unapologetically rugged and oversized, hefty pieces on the wrist built for hardened commandos. It didn’t take long before the Italian powerhouse would attract a glowing reputation for reliability beneath the waves, long before luxury collectors ever caught on. 

Close-up of bronze case and crown-protecting bridge
The trademark crown-protecting bridge: originally engineered to keep water out, now one of the most recognisable shapes in watchmaking. Image: Panerai

Today, Panerai’s reputation in the world of dive watches is arguably second to none. Instead of focussing on lavish excess, the Italian brand’s designs are built with purpose and legibility in mind, embodying the same defining qualities that made the brand’s most famous creation, the Luminor model, a cult object among the Paneristi faithful. 

Recognisable by its luminous sandwich dial and the signature crown-protecting bridge, the Luminor is both a military relic and a design icon. One that equally wouldn’t look out of place permanently fixed to the control room of a deep-sea submersible or on your wrist for next week’s late-night function.

The New Panerai Luminor Marina, Now In Bronzo

We’ve just had the new Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 through the office over the last month, and, on first glance, it looks like it was built for the ocean; like some long-lost fragment of a vintage submersible that’s surfaced from the deep. I mean this with untethered affection.  

A blue gradient sandwich dial built for maximum legibility beneath the waves — simple, readable, unmistakably Panerai. Image: DMARGE

Everything about it feels deliberate; the clean dial, big, bold numerals, and purposeful design remind me of the true tool watch of the 20th century. Pieces, designed for adventure rather than embellishment, that serve a purpose and can be the difference between life and death at the world’s most unforgiving depths.

For the first time, Panerai has introduced bronze to the Luminor Marina line, a blend of pure copper and tin which has been expertly engineered to develop a protective patina over time. It means that each piece will evolve in its own way; one that’s unique to its wearer.

Bronze that evolves with you: darkening, marking, and ageing into a finish that’s unique to every wearer. Image: DMARGE

The new matte blue gradient dial, fading from deep navy at the edges to lighter tones at the centre, perfectly complements the warm outer metal. Free of date windows or unnecessary clutter that we see so much these days, it’s certainly a modern take on a timeless expression; an elegant nod to the brand’s 1960s professional tool watches.

Under the hood, Panerai has incorporated the P.980 automatic calibre, released with the new generation of Panerai models. It boasts a three-day power reserve and improved shock resistance compared to its predecessors. 

The slimmer case profile ensures the watch wears comfortably while maintaining the Luminor’s unmistakable wrist presence. With water resistance to 500 metres, each case is tested 25% beyond its rated depth, proving Panerai’s dive-watch pedigree isn’t just historical marketing.

Sapphire caseback showing Panerai P.980 automatic movement
The in-house P.980 calibre delivers a three-day reserve and improved shock resistance — performance you can actually feel. Image: DMARGE

Of course, straddling the line between Italian luxury and deep-sea exploration, Panerai’s new Luminor Marina is presented on both a blue calf leather strap with beige stitching (which, admittedly, I’ve been wearing for most of this week), as well as an additional blue rubber strap for ocean duty (which, I’ll also admit I haven’t had the chance to test out for myself).

But after wearing this piece for this review, I’ve found that the PAM01678 feels like the most authentic expression of Panerai’s DNA in years.

Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 on wrist angled view
Blue calf leather for the dinner table, blue rubber for the dive boat; versatility built into Italian style. Image: DMARGE

What I mean by that is that Panerai watches were never meant to be decorative showpieces, embellished with diamonds or spinning roulette wheels. 

They were tools built for reliability, and this new Luminor Marina Bronzo captures that spirit perfectly. The sandwich dial exists to improve legibility in low light. The crown-protecting bridge was engineered to stop water from seeping into the case. Even the bronze itself, which darkens and evolves over time, tells a story of use. 

That’s what makes the PAM01678 so satisfying to wear. It’s a watch that will look different next summer, and different again a decade from now, shaped by the wearer’s own life rather than sitting untouched in a safe.

In an industry often distracted by overdesign, the Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 is a reminder of what Panerai has always done best: build watches with soul, and a story that deepens with time.

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